Finally, part 2 of the Alaskan Adventures. Sorry it took so long. I get disctracted. If you'd like to catch up on Part One, it's here. You can also click on the "Alaska" tag at the end of the entry.
Friday: So we "woke up" sometime around 5:30 am, which seemed to be about an hour or two after sunrise. Considering we went to sleep about an hour after sunset, I'm going to go with the whole "sun's down for two hours" theory. Feel free to disabuse me of that, but I was there, yo.
We went to go catch our charter (well, actually, I went to the bathroom and then the coffee shop, first, where I first broke my carb fast and had some of Ali's muffin). Ali wandered around and bought rubber boots, which I mocked her for and then used the next day.
We had to wait for our ship to come in (ha!) and so we didn't actually leave until around 7:30 or so, 'cause once the Captain (Jerry) got there, Ali and Iree were off at the boot shop, or whatever. But Ali bought some of those anti-seasick bands, so I probably can't complain. But if you ever wonder what's on my wrists in the pictures of me on the boat, it's the anti-seasick acupressure band things. Yo.
Off we went. It was really a beautiful, calm day. That's excellent. If it hadn't been calm, I probably would've spent the entire time throwing up over the railing. As it was, I was fairly woozy/queasy the entire trip. I am, apparently, a landlubber.
Apparently the best time to catch halibut - which is what we were fishing for - is right after the tide shifts, or something. I didn't even know there were tides that far out. I am oceaniacally stupid. Honestly. So we had to wait a couple of hours, but we set up our poles anyway and just floated around the ocean. Did I mention it was a beautiful day? We were out pretty far (it was about a 40 minute trip at top boat speed, whatever that is). There were mountains on both sides, and a volcano that was crowned in clouds. Very awesome.
Around noon or so, the fish started biting. And when I say biting, what I mean is this: one fish bit, and we reeled it up, then there was at least one hit every five minutes. It was pretty much constant fishing for the next few hours. Everyone's allowed to keep two, including Iree and the Captain, so we were aiming for 12 decent sized fish. We got more than 12, but didn't keep them all.
Fishing is hard work. If I had felt better, I'd have drunk (drank?) more so that the horrible pain in my arms would've been numbed. "Ah," thought I, "this is why fishermen drink." And they're all in better shape than I am.
Pull up, reel down. The halibut fishing mantra. It's actually the flounder fishing mantra, as well, but there's quite a difference between a four pound flounder that's twenty feet down and a twenty pound halibut that's 200 feet down. Quite.
So there was fishing, and eating and drinking. There was picture taking and fish clubbing, which resulted in bloody fish. After you club the fish and cut their gills, you stick them in a partly submerged net-thing on the back of the boat, so that most of the blood is gone by the time you get back. Genius. Except also sort of gross. I don't like to be reminded that my food was once a living, breathing, quasi-intelligent member of the animal kingdom. It's a thing.
In the end, we caught our twelve, and brought them back in to be cleaned and fileted for us. We kept a few pounds unfrozen, and kept the cheeks, but the rest we had frozen for shipment back to the Outside (i.e. anywhere not-Alaska) or just travel back to Palmer. The cheeks were actually quite good (we ate them Saturday night), and are probably the closest I'll get to the taste and feel of lobster for the rest of my life. I just had to get past the cheek eating part.
We were all tired and hungry, so eventually we decided on a place to eat. It was a pizza place (because I'm wary of seafood places). It was actually pretty good, for an organic, hippy establishment. Then James wanted to drive around the Spit to find his friend, which almost resulted in mutiny, and then we finally went to a hotel to crash. We got a suite. Which was, you know, okay. Two rooms, two beds, one pullout, and one huge couch. I took the couch. It was still sort of early, and I didn't want to ruin my shot at decent sleep that night, so I just took a shower and then hung out and played video games.
James and Steven went back to the Spit to do some salmon fishing, and Ali, Iree and I went out to dinner. The dinner was expensive and not that great. I started to get the feeling that it's pretty dumb not to order fish at these restaurants.
After dinner, there was some talk of ice cream, but everyone was too full to have it just yet. Ali suggested we walk down to the Spit to meet up with James and Steven, bring them our leftovers, and get ice cream. I had the feeling that this was a bad idea, and that the Spit was farther than Ali thought it was, but I tend not to speak up enough in situations like this.
So on three hours of sleep, after being sea sick and fishing hard all day, we walked five miles to the Spit. When we hit the edge of it (four miles in?) we saw James and Steven drive past us, in the other direction, but couldn't get their attention. We left a message for them with the hotel, but they ended up parking in the wrong lot so the hotel people never saw them go in (we found out later). We walked another mile and eventually gave up at around 10:30, at some RV park area. Where we bought Good Humor bars and called a taxi.
I slept really well that night.
Saturday: We slept in, which was good, since we all needed it. There was a place next door to the hotel that had awesome breakfast. I had biscuits and gravy and grits, and almost died of sheer joy. Sheer joy.
After breakfast, Ali, Iree, and I went back to the Spith (this time in a car) to work out the shipping for the fish. I ended up shipping half to my dad and half to my mom. So I still haven't technically eaten any of my fish, and it's been over a month. Oh well.
Then it was off for some more fishing. This involved a lot more car time, as Saturday's fishing was to be on a river, not the ocean. On the way, we stopped at James' friend's house, where I saw my first ever team of sled dogs that weren't animated. This was cool. I bet it would be cooler in the winter, but it was still cool. I'm a dog fan, after all. These particular dogs, some of which used to be James', were trained to stand on boxes (y'know, their houses) when they wanted to be pet. They were also shedding heavily, as it was July. Makes sense.
Then it was back in the car for another hour or so, until we hit the Russian River. Well, actually, we stopped at some sort of general store first. James bought some flies (the feathery kind) and I bought a hat with a salmon that said "Kenai River, Alaska" or something to that effect. The Russian and the Kenai are both glacial run-off that eventually meet, I think. Feel free to check a map if you're interested. We were a couple of miles down from that.
Did I mention glacial run off? And me without my rubber boots. Not owning rubber boots was the main reason that I didn't have any. So for my first hour or so, I stood with my pants rolled up to my knees, wearing James' too-big Tevas. This is something like swimming in the ocean off New England in April, which I've done. Very very cold. The difference between swimming and fishing, though, is that you stand there for an hour while fishing, and when you're swimming you just sort of go in, move around, and get out. Very cold.
This was my first time fishing on a river, and my first time fly fishing (I think they're the same: can you fish on a river without fly fishing?). It's fun and very relaxing and methodical. I liked it a lot. The river was crowded with people, both up and down, which James says is called "combat fishing." Cool.
We fished there for a few hours. Besides being cold, the river was very rocky. This made balancing hard, even after Ali lent my her rubber boots to fish in. Eventually, the guy next to me (who'd already caught about 6 fish while we'd been there) got one in the back that got away. Five minutes later, it got on my hook. I thought I'd snagged another rock or log, so didn't do much. Then the rock started pulling back and I realized "Eep! Fish!" And started reeling in and scrambling for the rocks at the same time.
Apparently this is a very precarious and precise art: I didn't get far enough up the bank and the fish started flapping its way back into the river. Luckily the guy next to us (the same one who'd caught about 40 fish already) ran over to wrestle it to the ground. I sure as hell wasn't about to wrangle with it.
Then there was some more head clubbing, which I continued to not join in on. Eventually, the fish was officially landed.
So I caught a silver salmon (they turn red farther up the river, as they get closer to spawning). James cleaned it up and we let it sit in a little pool that Iree made while we continued to fish. No one else got anything, though, and so a little while later we decided to pack it in. We still had a few hours to drive, after all. So the crew waited for the ferry to come back to shuttle us back across the river, and then it was back into the van. This time Ali drove, so I got shotgun.
On the way back to the van, some carrion eating wasps decided to tag along. Joy. I spastically flopped around the parking lot for a little, trying to get them away from me. We decided to get a snack a few miles up and then eat when we got back to Palmer. This resulted in my first experience with pork rinds. They're absolutely disgusting and delicious at the same time. And better yet, James "The Genius" decided to buy cheese sauce to dip them in. Heaven. They smell terrible, but taste wonderful. Who knew?
Then back upwards for a few hours. We hit Anchorage around 9 or 10 and Palmer about 45 minutes later. James started cooking the cheeks and some of the halibut filets as soon as we got back, as the rest of us emptied out the van. So we feasted on the fish we caught around 11 or so. Very cool. I've never eaten a cheek before.
And then up for a little longer, while I read some comics James bought at a garage sale (AU Return of the Jedi; weird but cool stuff). Then bed.
To be continued in Part 3: The Palmer PD and Me, the Future ADA. Plus: why I'll never like Minnesota.
Friday: So we "woke up" sometime around 5:30 am, which seemed to be about an hour or two after sunrise. Considering we went to sleep about an hour after sunset, I'm going to go with the whole "sun's down for two hours" theory. Feel free to disabuse me of that, but I was there, yo.
We went to go catch our charter (well, actually, I went to the bathroom and then the coffee shop, first, where I first broke my carb fast and had some of Ali's muffin). Ali wandered around and bought rubber boots, which I mocked her for and then used the next day.
We had to wait for our ship to come in (ha!) and so we didn't actually leave until around 7:30 or so, 'cause once the Captain (Jerry) got there, Ali and Iree were off at the boot shop, or whatever. But Ali bought some of those anti-seasick bands, so I probably can't complain. But if you ever wonder what's on my wrists in the pictures of me on the boat, it's the anti-seasick acupressure band things. Yo.
Off we went. It was really a beautiful, calm day. That's excellent. If it hadn't been calm, I probably would've spent the entire time throwing up over the railing. As it was, I was fairly woozy/queasy the entire trip. I am, apparently, a landlubber.
Apparently the best time to catch halibut - which is what we were fishing for - is right after the tide shifts, or something. I didn't even know there were tides that far out. I am oceaniacally stupid. Honestly. So we had to wait a couple of hours, but we set up our poles anyway and just floated around the ocean. Did I mention it was a beautiful day? We were out pretty far (it was about a 40 minute trip at top boat speed, whatever that is). There were mountains on both sides, and a volcano that was crowned in clouds. Very awesome.
Around noon or so, the fish started biting. And when I say biting, what I mean is this: one fish bit, and we reeled it up, then there was at least one hit every five minutes. It was pretty much constant fishing for the next few hours. Everyone's allowed to keep two, including Iree and the Captain, so we were aiming for 12 decent sized fish. We got more than 12, but didn't keep them all.
Fishing is hard work. If I had felt better, I'd have drunk (drank?) more so that the horrible pain in my arms would've been numbed. "Ah," thought I, "this is why fishermen drink." And they're all in better shape than I am.
Pull up, reel down. The halibut fishing mantra. It's actually the flounder fishing mantra, as well, but there's quite a difference between a four pound flounder that's twenty feet down and a twenty pound halibut that's 200 feet down. Quite.
So there was fishing, and eating and drinking. There was picture taking and fish clubbing, which resulted in bloody fish. After you club the fish and cut their gills, you stick them in a partly submerged net-thing on the back of the boat, so that most of the blood is gone by the time you get back. Genius. Except also sort of gross. I don't like to be reminded that my food was once a living, breathing, quasi-intelligent member of the animal kingdom. It's a thing.
In the end, we caught our twelve, and brought them back in to be cleaned and fileted for us. We kept a few pounds unfrozen, and kept the cheeks, but the rest we had frozen for shipment back to the Outside (i.e. anywhere not-Alaska) or just travel back to Palmer. The cheeks were actually quite good (we ate them Saturday night), and are probably the closest I'll get to the taste and feel of lobster for the rest of my life. I just had to get past the cheek eating part.
We were all tired and hungry, so eventually we decided on a place to eat. It was a pizza place (because I'm wary of seafood places). It was actually pretty good, for an organic, hippy establishment. Then James wanted to drive around the Spit to find his friend, which almost resulted in mutiny, and then we finally went to a hotel to crash. We got a suite. Which was, you know, okay. Two rooms, two beds, one pullout, and one huge couch. I took the couch. It was still sort of early, and I didn't want to ruin my shot at decent sleep that night, so I just took a shower and then hung out and played video games.
James and Steven went back to the Spit to do some salmon fishing, and Ali, Iree and I went out to dinner. The dinner was expensive and not that great. I started to get the feeling that it's pretty dumb not to order fish at these restaurants.
After dinner, there was some talk of ice cream, but everyone was too full to have it just yet. Ali suggested we walk down to the Spit to meet up with James and Steven, bring them our leftovers, and get ice cream. I had the feeling that this was a bad idea, and that the Spit was farther than Ali thought it was, but I tend not to speak up enough in situations like this.
So on three hours of sleep, after being sea sick and fishing hard all day, we walked five miles to the Spit. When we hit the edge of it (four miles in?) we saw James and Steven drive past us, in the other direction, but couldn't get their attention. We left a message for them with the hotel, but they ended up parking in the wrong lot so the hotel people never saw them go in (we found out later). We walked another mile and eventually gave up at around 10:30, at some RV park area. Where we bought Good Humor bars and called a taxi.
I slept really well that night.
Saturday: We slept in, which was good, since we all needed it. There was a place next door to the hotel that had awesome breakfast. I had biscuits and gravy and grits, and almost died of sheer joy. Sheer joy.
After breakfast, Ali, Iree, and I went back to the Spith (this time in a car) to work out the shipping for the fish. I ended up shipping half to my dad and half to my mom. So I still haven't technically eaten any of my fish, and it's been over a month. Oh well.
Then it was off for some more fishing. This involved a lot more car time, as Saturday's fishing was to be on a river, not the ocean. On the way, we stopped at James' friend's house, where I saw my first ever team of sled dogs that weren't animated. This was cool. I bet it would be cooler in the winter, but it was still cool. I'm a dog fan, after all. These particular dogs, some of which used to be James', were trained to stand on boxes (y'know, their houses) when they wanted to be pet. They were also shedding heavily, as it was July. Makes sense.
Then it was back in the car for another hour or so, until we hit the Russian River. Well, actually, we stopped at some sort of general store first. James bought some flies (the feathery kind) and I bought a hat with a salmon that said "Kenai River, Alaska" or something to that effect. The Russian and the Kenai are both glacial run-off that eventually meet, I think. Feel free to check a map if you're interested. We were a couple of miles down from that.
Did I mention glacial run off? And me without my rubber boots. Not owning rubber boots was the main reason that I didn't have any. So for my first hour or so, I stood with my pants rolled up to my knees, wearing James' too-big Tevas. This is something like swimming in the ocean off New England in April, which I've done. Very very cold. The difference between swimming and fishing, though, is that you stand there for an hour while fishing, and when you're swimming you just sort of go in, move around, and get out. Very cold.
This was my first time fishing on a river, and my first time fly fishing (I think they're the same: can you fish on a river without fly fishing?). It's fun and very relaxing and methodical. I liked it a lot. The river was crowded with people, both up and down, which James says is called "combat fishing." Cool.
We fished there for a few hours. Besides being cold, the river was very rocky. This made balancing hard, even after Ali lent my her rubber boots to fish in. Eventually, the guy next to me (who'd already caught about 6 fish while we'd been there) got one in the back that got away. Five minutes later, it got on my hook. I thought I'd snagged another rock or log, so didn't do much. Then the rock started pulling back and I realized "Eep! Fish!" And started reeling in and scrambling for the rocks at the same time.
Apparently this is a very precarious and precise art: I didn't get far enough up the bank and the fish started flapping its way back into the river. Luckily the guy next to us (the same one who'd caught about 40 fish already) ran over to wrestle it to the ground. I sure as hell wasn't about to wrangle with it.
Then there was some more head clubbing, which I continued to not join in on. Eventually, the fish was officially landed.
So I caught a silver salmon (they turn red farther up the river, as they get closer to spawning). James cleaned it up and we let it sit in a little pool that Iree made while we continued to fish. No one else got anything, though, and so a little while later we decided to pack it in. We still had a few hours to drive, after all. So the crew waited for the ferry to come back to shuttle us back across the river, and then it was back into the van. This time Ali drove, so I got shotgun.
On the way back to the van, some carrion eating wasps decided to tag along. Joy. I spastically flopped around the parking lot for a little, trying to get them away from me. We decided to get a snack a few miles up and then eat when we got back to Palmer. This resulted in my first experience with pork rinds. They're absolutely disgusting and delicious at the same time. And better yet, James "The Genius" decided to buy cheese sauce to dip them in. Heaven. They smell terrible, but taste wonderful. Who knew?
Then back upwards for a few hours. We hit Anchorage around 9 or 10 and Palmer about 45 minutes later. James started cooking the cheeks and some of the halibut filets as soon as we got back, as the rest of us emptied out the van. So we feasted on the fish we caught around 11 or so. Very cool. I've never eaten a cheek before.
And then up for a little longer, while I read some comics James bought at a garage sale (AU Return of the Jedi; weird but cool stuff). Then bed.
To be continued in Part 3: The Palmer PD and Me, the Future ADA. Plus: why I'll never like Minnesota.
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